Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts

Photoshop DJing, a tutorial.


After posting this photo, I've gotten numerous comments remarking how sketch-like it was and wondering how it was done. I haven't done a tutorial in a while, so...bottoms up!

I didn't feel like redoing the same image, so I chose another one that I took in the same cam-whoring session. Both these photos were taken in simple, diffused window light. The light in the photo is important to the effect--things need to be exposed evenly. Click the screenshots for a larger view.

Now, I need to you click the Channels tab on the Layers palette. Here you will see an RGB channel, and the Red, Green, and Blue channels separately. An RGB image is a composite of, obviously, all the Reds, Greens, and Blues in the picture. Each pixel is a combination of different percentages or each. The programming in our precious Photoshop doesn't actual "see" direct color though, so the numbers that make up the color percentages of each pixel are determined through the 3 separate B&W channels that Photoshop does see, using the amount of grey in the channel as a filter for how much of the color would shine through into the full composite image.

Above, I've displayed all three channels of the image I'm working with. You can see that skin tones etc. that have warmer, more red colors, are very light in the Red channel, but not so much in the Green and Blue. If this were, say, a photo of the ocean, the Blue channel would be primarily light instead. How I'm using the channels here is to manually define the tones in the finished B&W image. I want the glowing, lighter tones for the hair and eyes, and the detailed, darker tone for the skin, so I'll be using the Red and the Blue channels.

Click on the Red channel to display it, then Select All, Copy, click back to RGB and back to the Layers tab, and Paste. Repeat for the Blue channel.

Now your Layers palette should look something like this. Your original, a B&W Red copy, and a B&W Blue copy. The trick to mixing the two B&W layers is using a Layer mask. Select the top layer, then click the Layer Mask icon on the Layers palette (circled--or Layer>>Layer Mask>>Reveal All). This will give you an essentially empty canvas next to your layer that you can draw on with the brush tool to define what shows and what doesn't. Make sure you're painting with black to mask parts of the layer off, and white white to bring them back. The great thing about Layer Masks is that you can always change your mind without permanently erasing the actual layer!

I masked off the hair and eyes by drawing over them in the Layer Mask, as you can see in the thumbnail. You can also change the opacity (circled--essentially the strength) of your brush while painting for a less severe mask in certain places or however you see fit. Now the parts of the layer that I didn't mask off--the skin primarily--are darker like they are in the Blue channel, while the masked off parts allow the lighter Red channel to show through.

When you're satisfied, merge the B&W layers together (Layer>>Merge Down).

To even out the tones even more, I created a Curves layer to very slightly decrease the contrast, by making my brights darker, and my darks brighter.

Now, to get "sketchy." Make a copy of your B&W layer, and then you're going to apply the High Pass filter (Filter>>Other>>High Pass). As I'm writing this, my husband leans over and says, "High pass filters are for music, dummy," and he's right! In music, a high pass filter is used to only allow certain high frequencies through the amplifier. In the case of Photoshop, the "frequencies" allowed by the High Pass filter are the concentrated high contrast ares, like edges. The filter then boosts the saturation in these areas. The High Pass filter is especially useful in that it only affects the edges and details of an image, allowing you to sharpen just those and reduce noise sharpening in broader areas like skin.

When you choose High Pass, a window will pop up with a preview of the image and a slider prompting you to choose your radius in pixels. With a smaller radius your details will be more defined, and with a wider radius they'll be, well, wider. For this layer I'm choosing a wider radius. How little or big you choose to go depends on the size of your image, and of course, you! Play with it.

Once your filter has been applied, go to your Blending Mode menu on the Layers palette (it should say "Normal" to begin with). You'll want to choose either Soft Light, Overlay, or Hard Light (circled). I recommend either Overlay or Hard Light as they create a more drastic effect, and you can then modulate that with the layer's opacity (circled).

I then repeat this process by creating another copy of the original B&W layer and applying the High Pass filter again, this time with a smaller pixel radius.

As a finishing touch, I create another Curves layer to just slightly boost the contrast, and....

You're done!



~ Thursday, June 2, 2011 0 comments

Moon Prism Power!


I've gotten a lot of questions and request for a tutorial on creating the Sailor Moon-esque, light painting composites I've been into lately. So, here's a quick (albeit sloppy) tutorial!

I drew this up in about 20 minutes, but I recommend playing around with this look and technique and figuring out exactly what you want from the images. Some stuff will work, some won't. Practice makes perfect. Don't just copy pixel for pixel, get creative, make it yours!

I used stock images for this tutorial from stock.xchg (you can even see the window open at the bottom of my screenshots, haha), however my previous pieces were a combination of portraits shot in studio and my own stock. For a look at these you can check them out on my Flickr-- one, two, three, & four.





Of course start out by opening your image. I chose this one because I want to get the effect of her flying, and also because it will be easy to remove the grass from the background. If I were shooting for this I'd shoot in studio to have an even colored, flat background for all the glitz, glitter, and light to lay over as I'm working. A picture with a busy background will only end up looking sloppy and way too busy. The images in this tutorial are kind of small, but if you click on them you can view them fullsize.




I just used the brush tool to go over the parts of the background I didn't like (grass and clouds), as well as the empty space that was created when I moved the girl over towards the other side of the image. The brush strokes you can see aren't that big of a deal. They are more or less the same color and tone as the rest of the background, so they won't show in the end product.Now, to get the glittery effect I used a bokeh picture, or something similar. Pictures of clouds, stars, flowers, whatever will work too, it's all up to you!




Now, I set the blending mode on the layers palette to "screen." This gives the layer that see through effect. Play with the other blending modes if you want until you find something that you like, though I tend to stick to screen or overlay for this one.You might now want all the sparkles all over you subject, so I recommend creating a layer mask (Layer menu>>Layer Mask>>Reveal All). This will let you erase parts of the layer but be able to go back and edit your erasures are you wish.




I set my brush's opacity to 48, strong enough to get rid of what I don't want to see, but subtle enough to not look like I just chopped something out. Select the layer mask on your layer palette and just paint away what you don't want! If you want to add something back in, just switch your brush to white (or hit "x") and paint back over.On to the lights! For these I used three different light painting images, but I'll just show you the basics with one.




You can stretch and warp this to fit your picture if you need, the distortion won't really be visible. I create a curves layer to boost the contrast on the lights. I try to keep everything black so that it won't show once I change the blending mode. Merge the curves layer to the lights layer. Now change the blending mode. Either screen or color dodge works well, depending on how intense you want the light streaks to be. In this case I set all my light layers to screen.




I then copied the layer and applied a gaussian blur filter to give it a little more glow.I repeated these steps on my other two light layers, and voila!




If I were going to a more polished look, in the layer masks on each I'd mask out which parts of the light I wanted behind the model, to give the effect that it was wrapping around her. I also added an additional curves layer to get the contrast the way I wanted and there you are! All done!





~ Friday, June 5, 2009 0 comments